Every Saturday morning Xiao Yang squeezes fresh orange juice for all takers. He's kind enough to also bring coffee and some sort of breadstuff (he uses the purchase of fresh bagels or muffins as an excuse to drive the car, which he enjoys very much). But my favorite part; the fresh O.J. with plenty of vodka and a little Galliano added has changed. No more "eye opener" for me after each Friday night's mayhem. For two weeks now, Yang has sat with me and enjoys his own coffee and glazed donut while I partake of my breakfast. He wants to know why I've been so quiet lately (usually I'm rather loquacious).

I haven't bothered to look up the Chinese for "manic." Yang used to enjoy my manic antics when I'd have had a few too many glasses of whatever it was I was having of an evening. Yang can't understand why all of a sudden I've gone from being a lush to a tea-totaler. Yang doesn't drink much; a cold beer on a hot day, or maybe a good snifter of Cognac at the end of dinners out.

These days political correctness dictates that we no longer find humor in the excess consumption of alcohol. Joe E. Lewis, Dean Martin, and Foster Brooks are all now ancient relics whose humor must be enjoyed in private, in no small part thanks to the efforts of MADD. I remember the days long before MADD when cops used to drink at bars, in uniform. When cocktails at 12:00 noon were de rigeur. When I'd enjoy the looks of sheer horror on the faces of other drivers on the Hutchinson River Parkway when they'd spot me taking a good swig off of my bottle of scotch, behind the wheel at about 75 miles per hour, happily heading for the country house in Connecticut.

Don't get me wrong, there's a place in this world for MADD, until people stop underestimating the degree of their intoxication and killing others with their motor vehicles. Heck, I've engaged in irresponsible behavior with regard to drinking and driving and I'm ashamed to admit it.

The Chinese still get a laugh out of drunken humor, or humor at the expense of a drunk. I can't tell you how many times, for fun, I've summoned the staff of the restaurant into the bar for lessons in "drink making". I'd always end up filling the blender with cracked ice and "booze" (in this case water poured into an empty vodka bottle) and switching the machine on "high" with the cover off, intentionally dousing myself and my surroundings with the imaginary "cocktail" within. Then, emoting sheer frustration, I'd grab the nearest bottle of (real) booze and drink heartily.

There's irony in being a notorious boozer and suddenly not having a glass in one's hand all the time. It's normally been my habit when arriving at a favorite watering hole to buy a round of drinks for those who're known to me. Often, the gesture is returned; but it's not expected on my part. Well, about five times lately in my own restaurant these same kind folks, noticing that my glass is either empty or there's no glass at all, order a drink for me from the waitress and have her send it over.

The wine salesmen have all been coming around with sample bottles of wines and spirits. Perhaps it's my imagination, but this seems to be happening much more frequently than when I was buzzed all the time.

The restaurant we frequent on our once-weekly visits to New York City makes a wonderful martini. The bartender was astounded, after he'd chilled the glass and got ready to pour, that I declined, politely. I had him open a nice bottle of white wine and told him to send it to our table when our guest got there. I drank about a third of the bottle (a Gruner Veltliner from Austria) and it was like nectar. On my way to use the washroom mid-meal, the bartender asked me if my health was okay and I told him yes. Then he asked if my wife was reining in my martini consumption - "you can always have a quick one in here with me." I told him no. I just said that I think I'd had enough gin for the time being and left it at that.

Finally, it's summer party time. That's tough. Far be it from me, however, to allow peer pressure to get the best of me. I have my couple of seltzers and when the party gets too boozy I leave. End of story.

My doctor says that 1-2 cocktails a day for a male my age is just fine. He's leaving it up to me to decide if I can moderate my intake (as do many of his patients, he says, who're in a similar predicament). Should I not be able to, there'll be meetings to go to and new friends to be made. Let's see what happens.

UPDATE 07/30/07: Hyphenated articulated my predicament well: "It's so hard when the thing you want to stay away from makes you feel so good on so many levels. Then too, you work in food and entertainment. You're required by the force of your job to be the life of the party. I hope everyone around you can get used to the new you and support you." I love that woman and I've never even met her in person. What would I do without her, and the other noders who've offered kind, supporting words?