Sewing: Instructions on how to make a garment or other project. The rest of this write-up refers to clothing patterns, which are the most common, but all patterns are much the same.
Each pattern is identified by a combination of the maker's name and a number. For instance, McCall's 6751 (the basis for most of my business skirts and casual trousers), or Style 2773 (a strappy princess-line formal dress). There are a few major pattern publishers who dominate the market (McCall's, Simplicity, Butterick), plus some specialised companies (such as Folkways, which reproduces traditional garments).
To select a pattern, look in the pattern books lying around in the sewing shop. Each publisher issues its own books, with drawings and photos of the different things its patterns make (each different garment in one pattern is called a "view"). The drawings are always of impossibly skinny people, but give a clearer idea of where the seams, tucks, pleats and darts are. Ignore body shape - if you're sewing, it's assumed you know what styles will suit you.
Once you've decided, note down the pattern maker and number. Figure out what size range you want; most patterns will do several sizes. Check to see whether the manufacturer is using American sizing.
Go to the pattern counter and ask for your pattern; you don't have to pay for it yet. It comes in a paper envelope about 6 1/2" x 8" (A5 size). The front of the envelope will have the same pictures that attracted your eye in the pattern book. On the back, there are a number of useful bits:
- Schematics of the backs of the different garments, showing seams, zippers, darts, etc.
- Suggested fabrics to use. Not all fabric types are suitable for all garments.
- A chart of which body measurements translate to which size.
- Fabric requirements for each size of each view, to cover all the variations of bolt width (either 45"/115 cm or 60"/150cm) and nap. If you want to use fabric with plaids or stripes, you'll need more than the amount stated.
- Any lining fabric and/or interfacing required.
- Measurements for the finished garments.
- Notions required.
Once you've paid for your pattern, taken it home, and opened it, you will find a bunch of tissue paper and a bunch of normal paper. Start with the normal paper.
These are your instructions. RTFM. They give you:
- A key to all the symbols used in the diagrams and on the tissue pattern pieces.
- A glossary of the sewing terms used in the instructions.
- Another schematic of the garments, front and back.
- The number, shapes, and names of all the pieces in the pattern.
- Cutting layouts for the different garments and different bolt widths. This tells you which pieces are needed for which views, which bits go face down and which go face up, what goes on the fold, etc. Unless you are very, very sure of yourself, follow the cutting layouts. They are sometimes wasteful, but never wrong. Note that you'll need to jiggle things a bit if you're trying to match up plaids or stripes at the seams.
- Step-by-step instructions, with plenty of diagrams, for making each garment.
The tissue paper has the shapes of the actual pattern pieces printed on it. Once you're sure of the size of garment you want to make, you can cut out the pieces and go to work. It's fairly fragile stuff, so treat it with care to get more than 3 or 4 uses out of it.