The
Chinese term "gongfu" (in its Pinyin
transliteration; in Wade-Giles it is "
kung-fu") simply means to do something skilfully or with
style. As applied to tea drinking, it refers to
traditions of preparation, consumption, and
appreciation that go back to Luyu in the early
Tang dynasty and before. My understanding of Chinese tea comes from the
perspective of
Japanese tea ceremony so might not be as rich as those readers of a Chinese background.
The Chinese tea ceremony emphasizes the tea, rather than the ceremony -- what the tea tastes like, smells like, and how one tea tastes compared another tea, or how it changes during successive rounds of drinking. Ceremony doesn't mean that each server will perform the actions in the same way; it is not related to religion. Each step is part of a process of sensory exploration and appreciation. And this is what ceremony means: to celebrate.
Many fine teas used in the Chinese tea ceremony are now grown in the mountains of Taiwan at around 4,000 feet. These teas are particularly refined, such as oolong teas which are lightly fermented and red teas that can be moderately to heavily fermented. Many wonderful teas are best when especially fresh; a few are best when aged considerablly, like fine wines.
This style of tea drinking uses small cups to match the small, unglazed clay teapots; each cup is just large enough to hold about two small swallows of tea. These tiny cups are particularly popular in Fujian and Chiujao, in southern coastal China above Canton. In Shanghai and Beijing larger cups are commonly used.
To Brew Tea in the Chinese Style
After heating water to boiling, the teapot is first rinsed with hot water. Using chopsticks or a bamboo tea scoop, fill the teapot to approximately 1/3 full with tea leaves and then pour boiling water into the pot. Hold the teapot over a large bowl, letting the overflow run into the bowl. Give the tea leaves a rinse by filling the pot half full with hot water, then drain the water out immediately, leaving only the soaked tea leaves.
Now fill the pot to the top with more hot water, cover and pour more water over the teapot resting in the tea bowl. Do not allow bubbles to form in the pot. (When mixed with the tea, bubbles form a foam that is not aesthetically pleasing.)
Be sure to not let the tea steep for too long; the first infusion should be steeped for only 30 seconds. In less than a minute, pour the tea into the cups by moving the teapot around in a continual motion over the cups so that they are filled together at the same time. Each cup should taste exactly the same.
After steeping, the tea can be poured into a second teapot or tea pitcher to be served at leisure. More water can be added to the teapot, and up to five infusions typically can be made from the same tea leaves. Be sure to add 10 more seconds for the second brewing and 15 additional seconds thereafter.
Each pot of tea serves three to four rounds and up to five or six, depending on the tea and the server. The goal is that each round taste the same as the first. Creating consistent flavour is where the mastery of the server is seen. However, I prefer to savour the differences that occur with each infusion, the ways in which subtle nuances of the tea that were only in the background before, now stand forth.
The Water
The water used in the tea ceremony is as important as the tea itself. Chlorine and fluoride in tap water should be filtered out as they harm the flavor of the tea. Distilled water makes flat tea and should be avoided. A high mineral content in the water brings out the richness and sweetness of green tea. Black teas taste much better when made with water containing less Volvic. Ideal tea water should have an alkaline pH around 7.9. Actually, Chinese tea literature is full of effusive commentaries on the virtues of obscure and rare water. One need not go so far as to import water melted from the ice of an Andean mountain-top. But most tap water is a bit too rough.
Green teas are ruined by boiling water; the temperature is best around 170-185 degrees F. Oolongs made with underboiled water are more fragrant.