I've
recently read a couple of articles in
wine publications which seem to suggest that, if you're
in search of a
Cabernet Sauvignon that displays "
varietal trueness," you have to look to
Washington State. Now, the idea that there should be some kind of
ground state for
Cabernet is not so
far fetched: it is one of the most
moldable grapes, and tends to take on the
character of the region where it's grown. A
Bordeaux from
Medoc, for example, tastes much different than a
Cab from
Napa Valley.
Anyway, I decided to examine the "varietal trueness" claim, even though my ability to taste critically is limited by my relative inexperience. This wine was excellent, and I immediately caught a glimpse of why wine writers tell you to look to Washington: this $13 Hogue offering (from grapes grown in the Columbia Valley) was a happy medium between the more tannic wines of Napa Valley and the fruity Cabs of Sonoma.
Well, on to the wine: This was a terrific Cab. The deep red color, flecked with brick tints at the edges, suggests that the wine is ready to go. The aroma is a subtle blend of fruit (perhaps hints of blackberries) and an oaky vanilla. The taste was very well balanced: low acidity, moderate but ripe tannins, [solid but not in-your-face fruit. The finish was quite long and pleasant, faintly echoing of cherries. In short, this was a complex yet easy to drink red wine, and at a good price to boot. I've already bought another couple of bottles to stash, and I hope to buy more before this vintage disappears from the shelves.
Back to Rook's Wine Reviews