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Stich plate

created by Withnail

(thing) by Withnail (10.9 hr) (print)   ?   (I like it!) Mon Mar 04 2002 at 18:24:59

The Stich plate is a simple, mechanical device used in rock climbing and associated sports, (e.g. mountaineering). It is a friction device used to control the release of rope whilst belaying.

Stich plates are typically made of aluminium/aluminum as this is a strong, yet lightweight, metal. They are a shaped like a disc and are a few mm thick. They can be found in single-, and double-slotted versions, (double-slotted versions have two, parallel slots to accomodate climbers using twin ropes).

A Stich plate is used in conjunction with a karabiner to create a path of variable friction for the climbing rope. A loop of rope is passed through the slot in the plate and clipped into the karabiner, (normally attached to a climber's harness). The friction created by this combination is controlled by the 'angle of attack' of the rope releative to the front face of the Stich plate: rope entering perpendicular to the slot experiences a relatively small amount of friction. Resistance increases as the angle between the rope and the front of the plate is reduced from a right-angle. Rope angle in this context refers to the 'dead' side of the rope in the Stich plate, (i.e. the end of the rope NOT attached to the other climber - known as the 'live side').

Some Stich plates have a helical spring attached to the back face of the plate. In 'normal' conditions, the spring helps keep the Stich plate spaced from the karabiner allowing easy passage for the rope. The spring is compressed when the rope becomes 'loaded' and the plate 'locks' the rope.

Using the Stich plate, it is possible for the belayer to actually 'lock' the rope in the device, (useful in the case of a fall). Obviously, the usefulness of the Stich plate is somewhat dimished if the climber on the other end of the rope weighs twice as much as you and you aren't safely anchored the nearest tree or boulder.

Safety Note: This description is for illustrative purposes only and is not a substitute for correct training!


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